History of Jewelry
Egyptian Jewelry
The earliest known record of jewelry making was found in Egypt.This evidence was found in ancient tombs. It was the job of the jeweler craftsman to engrave and cut the small stones found in most Egyptian work.These craftsman made personal ornaments for decoration and adornment. The Egyptians believed that many gemstones had supernatural powers and meanings depending on their colors. They believed that Green Jasper would bring rain and agates were a protection against spider bites and thunderstorms. Lapis lazuli was believed to keep the wearer free from snake attacks. The most famous Egyptian jewelry piece created was the scarab. The Egyptian jewelers would beat silver, gold and bronze and cut them into strips to make wire which later was made into a band of metal, shaped as a stiff hoop. Egyptian jewelry making reached its peak, during the dynasty from 1991 to 1786 BC.
Phoenician Jewelry
After the Egyptians era came the Phoenicians. Their jewelry making looked a lot like the patterns that were set in Egypt and in Babylon. The Phoenician’s created some of their own ideas. Phoenician women pierced their ears so they could wear gold rings and drop-shaped pendants. The women would wear dozens of necklaces and rings on each joint of the every finger. The Phoenicians developed a method of designing metal with the placement of small gold beads and this became the finest gold filigree of ancient times.
Greek Jewelry
The Greeks did not have a jewelry style of their own. They copied most of their designs and styles from other cultures. Greek mythology had a large influence in their jewelry designs. The jewelry would be designed to look like their deities and subjects from heroic legends and athletes. The Roman influence showed when the Greek jewelers used more gems, such as topaz, amethyst, aquamarine and Syrian garnet. The Greeks were mostly known for their pendants and necklaces. One of their most popular pendants was the cross, made centuries before the Christian era.The most important jewelry making contribution the Greeks jewelers made was the hand carved cameo. The first stone cameo portraits appeared under Alexander the Great and were made to look like him.
Italian Jewelry
Italian jewelry began about three thousand years ago with the Etruscan civilization. It is said they created some of the finest jewelry that has ever been made. Men and women wore beautifully carved rings on every finger, head ornaments such as wreaths of flowers. Amber was the most popular stone and was set in silver. Most of their necklaces had a hollow pendant that would hold a magic token or charm. They were called bullas and resembled tiny urns or vases. Necklaces were also made of pearls, beads, Greek cameos and coins. Bracelets became very popular and the woman would not only wear them on the wrist but on every section of the arm. Coins were used to decorate many of these creations.
Jewelry of the middle ages
Middle ages were from the fall of the Roman Empire, approximately 500 AD to the expulsion of the Moslems from Spain in 1492, which many consider the end of the medieval history. Jewelry design using stones became less important and instead the mystical meaning of the jewelry became more important. During this time the art of goldsmithing and jewelry making was brought back by the monks in the monasteries as Christianity spread. The monks did this because they needed a trade to keep the monastery alive. The monks made and designed jewelry that always had a strong religious influence. Jewelry designs were dominated by Christian ideas and most of the jewelry did not include stones. The German tribes, known as “barbarians” created the inlaid jewelry. They would ground down the gem stones to make them flat and then attach them to the piece of jewelry by surrounding the stone in metal. This created the inlaid appearance. Garnets, turquoise, and mother-of-pearl were the stones most used.
Jewelry of the Renaissance
The renaissance of the late fifteenth through the sixteenth centuries changed the look of jewelry and the focus was more for beauty and a symbol of wealth.Jewelers of the renaissance created objects of real life, with the focus on the beauty of animated things such as exotic animals, like parrots, lizards and birds. Color was just as important as the subject.The contribution of the jewelers to the renaissance era was its bright and vivid colors.
Jewelry from the seventeenth Century
In the seventeenth century jewelry took on a new look and the stones became more important than their settings. The design of the jewelry was not as important as who wore the jewelry.
Jewelry from the eighteenth century
The eighteenth century became “the age of gems.” Gems were precious and semi-precious. During the French revolution jewelry changed again and the look was simplicity. Long chains of gold and silver joined by a medallion were the popular style as were very long earrings. In France after Napoleon was coroneted he and Josephine brought back the demand for jewels.
Jewelry of the nineteenth century
Jewelry styles became more solid and designs were made with richer and heavier stones. Large pins, long earrings, heavy bracelets and gold rings. Black onyx and jet were also very popular stones and were worn a lot. Towards the end of the nineteenth century jewelry became more massive and less delicate. Diamonds and pearls became more popular than the colored stones. In earlier times diamonds were not as popular because they were colorless.
Jewelry of the Twentieth century
In the 1920s costume jewelry became very popular. Fake or costume jewelry was also called cocktail jewelry. Major designers such as Coco Channel and Elsa Schiaparelli encouraged the wearing of costume jewelry along with genuine gem jewelry they already owned. A designer named Napier in the 1930s designed and manufactured fabulous fake cocktail jewels and to this day still designs and makes these pieces. In the 1940s and 1950s people wanted to look like the movie idols of that time and the movie industry had a big influence on what the fad was and the desire people had to look like their favorite movie idols and wear what they wore.
Jewelry of the Twenty first century
The history of jewelry has come a long ways with various types and styles. The use of fine sterling silver, silver plating, gold, gold plating and gold filled has been used in fine jewelry to costume jewelry alike. Stones also varied from precious gems to natural semi-precious stones. Almost anything goes and it just depends on ones preference and taste.Jewelry is still a fashion statement as well as a show of wealth and success.
It appears that no matter when the jewelry was created or what it was made of the fact is it is here to stay and will always be special in the eye of the beholder. It could be an ancient piece or an antique piece handed down by a loved one, which ever the case it will always hold its value to the one that owns it.
Metals used in jewelry making
The two most used and popular metals in jewelry making are gold and sterling silver.
Gold – is measured in karats and is the amount of pure gold found in an item.
24 karat (24k) gold is pure
18 karat (18k) gold contains 18 parts gold and 6 parts of another metal or metals, making it 75% gold.
14 karat (14k) gold contains 14 parts gold and 10 parts of another metal or metals, making it 58.3% gold.
10 karat (10k) gold contains 10 parts gold and 14 parts of another metal or metals, making it 41.7% gold. 10k gold is the minimum karat amount that can be used and still be called gold in the United States.
Gold Filled - This is a piece of jewelry that has a sheet of gold applied to it’s surface. Some pieces of jewelry will show markings that indicate how much and what type of gold was used in the layer. If the piece has a marking of 1/20 12k G.F., this means the piece is at least 1/20th 12k gold by weight.
Gold Plated - This a piece of jewelry that has a very thin layer of gold applied to it. The thin layer usually wears away more quickly than gold filled.
Sterling Silver - Sterling silver is a silver alloy, that contains a minimum of 92.5 percent pure silver. Copper is usually used to make up the remaining part of the mixture.
Fine silver (99.9% pure) is too soft for making functional objects such as jewelry and that is why it is alloyed with copper to give it strength.
Silver plated - Like gold plated silver plated is also a piece of jewelry that is made of some other metal and then a fine layer of silver is applied.
Bali Beads - Bali beads date back to the 14th century.They come from an island called Bali. Each bead is handcrafted with great care and artistry out of sterling silver. Because they are handcrafted each bead is similar to the eye but not identical. They truly are a work of art.
Natural Stones and Semi-Precious Stones
Throughout time various natural stones and gems have been used in jewelry making. When designing a piece of jewelry it is the type of stone and its color that bring on the designing ideas. I believe a design should compliment the stone being used and bring out its true beauty and unique appearance and appeal. Because the stones are natural and not man made there are variations in color and markings. No two stones are identical.
Listed below is a description and meanings of the stones used in the jewelry designs.
Agate - Agates comes in all colors and designs. Agate is one of the oldest stones in history and can be found in many parts of the world. Agate has been mined in Idar-Oberstein in Germany since 1548. It can also be found in the United States, Uruguay, Mexico, Brazil, Italy, China, India and Scotland. Using agate in jewelry dates back to the Biblical times. It is said that agates protect you from bad dreams. Energies: Protection, healing.
Amazonite - This stone is a semi-opaque blue-green variety of feldspar and is named after the Amazon River. It can be located in Virginia, Brazil, Australia, Namibia, Zimbabwe and Russia. This stone is believed to be a balancing stone that holds the power to soothe nerves. Amazonite also balances feminine and masculine energy and promotes kindness. Energies are luck and healing.
Amethyst - Amethyst is a variety of quartz and occurs naturally throughout the world. The color of this stone may vary from light lavender to a very dark purple. The amethyst is primarily mined in South America and the African continent. It can also be found in Australia, Colorado and Siberia. This stone has been considered a spiritual stone. The amethyst is known as the Bishop’s stone and is still worn by Catholic Bishops. It symbolizes piety, humility, sincerity and spiritual wisdom. In ancient times the Egyptians believed the amethyst would guard against guilty and fearful feelings and a protection against witchcraft. Energies are power, protection and healing.
Aquamarine - Aquamarine is a gorgeous blue stone that comes from Colombia and Brazil, India, Zambia, Mozambique, Angola and Russia. It is also found in the United States in Colorado, North Carolina, Maine and Vermont. It is said that aquamarine is treasured by mermaids and it keeps sailors safe at sea. This stone is one of the most favored by modern time designers. It is the birthstone for March and is believed to protect one from gossip and spirits. The ancient Romans used this stone for diseases of the stomach. Energies: Magic, Healing, Protection and Power.
Bamboo Coral (Red) - Coral is made up of calcium carbonate and over time builds up as the skeletal remains of tiny sea creatures. Coral may be many different colors, red, white, pink, blue and also a very rare black. The bamboo coral gets its name from the fact that the Red bamboo coral grows in branches, very similar to bamboo stalks.In its natural state the finish is matte with small holes, scratches and cracks. It is very often filled with wax to smooth the imperfections. Dye is used to bring out a better and more uniform color. The Red bamboo coral comes from the South Pacific. It is said that wearing Red bamboo coral will protect you from evil spirits and will bring luck to the home. It will also protect those who work near or around water. Wear it when traveling over water.
Garnet - The Garnet gets its name from the Greek word for pomegranate, granatum, because of the deep red color. Garnet is also found in other colors, including green, orange, brown and black. Garnets date back to the tombs of the ancient Egyptians and have also been considered a scared stone by the Native American Indians, the Incans, Mayans and some African tribal elders. The Garnet is found in Scotland, Switzerland, South Africa, Tanzania, Myanmar, Argentina, Brazil and the United States, mostly in Arizona. The Garnet is said to help keep the blood clean from infections and to cure depression. It is also considered a stone that will draw love to the bearer and is considered a stone of compassion and a symbol of affection.
Hematite - Hematite is a mineral form of iron oxide. Hematite is a mineral, black in color or steel or silver-gray. Hematite can be formed in different ways and one is in places where there has been standing water or mineral hot springs. It can also form without water, usually as the result of volcanic activity. Hematite comes from The United States and Canada, Mexico, England, Australia and Brazil. During the Victorian era Hematite was the most popular stone is Europe. Hematite is said to improve relationships. Scientists believe there are deposits of Hematite on Mars.
Jade (Burma) - Most jade used in jewelry making is jadeite or nephrite jade. Burma jade or Burma Jadeite is rare and includes varying colors of white, yellow, green and black. It is said that jade holds powers of good luck, protection and wisdom. This stone is considered a sacred stone in China.
Labradorite - Labradorite is a rare feldspar and was discovered in Labrador, but is now found throughout the world. The labradorescence of the stone is caused by light bouncing off inclusions of magnetite. Labradorite will give you protection and heals and balances relationships.
Lapis Lazuli - Lapis is used as a semiprecious stone. It is made up of the mineral lazurite embedded in a matrix of white calcite and contains small specks of pyrite. This stone is valued because of its deep-blue color and is found in Afghanistan and Chile.
Larimar - Larimar was originally discovered in 1916 by a Spanish priest who had reported the find but no mining of the stone was ever done. Then in 1974 an American Peace Corp Volunteer, Norman Rilling, and the Dominican named, Miguel Mendez, rediscovered the stone on the beaches of Barahona in the Dominican Republic. The stone was named by Miguel Mendez after his daughter “Larissa” and the Spanish word for sea “Mar”. This stone is becoming rare because the area of mining is only one mile by one mile the available quantity at this mine is unknown which makes the future supply of Larimar uncertain. This stone has also been called the Stone of Atlantis because it is believed that part of the lost city of Atlantis can be found in the Caribbean near where this stone has been discovered. Energies: Love, Healing and personal powers.
Mangano Calcite - The makeup of Mangano Calcite is a calcium carbonate. The color is a light pink color with white inclusions. The pink color is because of its Manganese content.Pink Mangano calcite is a heart crystal and it is associated with angels. It is said that the loving energy of mangano calcite dissolves resistance and its energies are, power, healing and love.
Onyx - Onyx dates back to the ancient times and was very popular with the ancient Greeks and Romans. Its name comes from the Greek word “onyx” which means nail or claw. Onyx was ideal for carvings and jewelry making. Onyx is black chalcedony quartz with a fine texture. Some onyx has white bands or ribbons against a black background. Energies: Protection, healing.
Pink Opal - Millions of years ago the Opal was formed when a combination of water and silica flowed into cracks and spaces in the ground. It gradually solidified and became hard to become the opal. The ancient Romans believed the Pink Opal would bring hope and good luck. The Opal is also known as the stone of peace and tranquility for the aura. Energies: Love, healing, power, and good luck
Rhodocrosite - Rhodocrosite is commonly found in the form of stalactites and stalagmites in the caves of Argentina. The name means rose-colored and often has pink and white bands. The tubular stalactite formations are sliced to be used in jewelry and are used in high end jewelry making. Rhodocrosite is also known as the Inca Rose Stone. Rhodocrosite is found in Argentina, Peru, Colorado, Montana and Quebec, Canada. Rhodocrosite became the official state mineral of Colorado in 2002 based on the fact that the Sweet Home Mine near Alma, Colorado produces the highly prized and rare crystals found only in a few places on earth. Energies: Love, power, healing, soothes the heart. Rhodocrosite is an excellent conductor of energy.
Rose Quartz - Quartz is the single most abundant mineral on earth. In ancient times this stone was believed to be the stone of love and compassion. Rose Quartz gets its delicate pink color from Titanium and is found in Madagascar, India, Scotland, Germany, Spain and the USA, including Colorado, Connecticut, Maine, New York and in the Southern Black Hills of South Dakota. Energies: Love
Snowflake Obsidian - Obsidian is a naturally occurring glass produced by rapidly cooling lava and is considered a true mineral.Some obsidian contains white inclusions resembling snowflakes. Snowflake Obsidian is a stone of purity and balances the mind body and spirit. Energies: Power, healing, protection.
Swarovski Crystal - Swarovski crystal is a luxury brand of precision cut lead crystal glass. It was produced by Daniel Swarovski of Austria. In 1892 Daniel Swarovski patented an electric cutting device that produced the lead crystal glass. In order to create a crystal that allows light to reflect in a rainbow spectrum, Swarovski coats some of the crystals with a metallic coating. Aurora Borealis or “AB” is one of the most popular coatings and gives the crystal a rainbow effect. Swarovski also makes beads, pearls and rhinestones. These crystals are famous through the world and is still one of the finest crystals known.
Turquoise - This stone was discovered by the Egyptians in 6000 BC and is one of the oldest protection amulets, and was also known as a symbol of wealth in many ancient cultures. The ancient Aztecs believed it was a holy stone and the American Indians believe turquoise established a link between sky and lake, bringing needed rain. It is one of the oldest stones known. Natural turquoise is untreated, rare, and can be very expensive. The color ranges from a sky blue to blue-green hues. The bright colors are due to the copper content. Turquoise is found in many parts of the world from Turkey to the United States. It is said that turquoise gives strength, protection from harm, psychic sensitivity and connection to the spirit world. Energies are luck, love, protection and healing.
